6 point Divisor Plan

[Lanky]

Six point divisor plan

Here is a very good page on the divisor plan.

But please read this 1st & if you have any Questions....Just ask me...I will do my very best for you.

H6 POINT DIVISOR

Here it is:-

. THE SIX POINT PLAN

The Six Point Plan has been around for a long time.

Few people use it.

And yet it is one of the easiest methods around to enable you to win on a consistent basis.
There really is no great risk attached to its operation, because you can introduce a built-in safety brake if things threaten to get out of control.Professionals regard it as the soundest of all target-staking methods.

It's been played in Australia for more than 50 years, but seems to have been more popular in the 30s and 40s than nowadays, when punters seem more impatient than their predecessors.

The aim of the Six Point Plan is to win six betting units every time the punter backs a winner, or winners, whose odds total six.

The target figure decides the opening bet.

Example: If you were aiming to win $6 altogether, the opening bet would be $1 because the DIVISOR is six. So you have six divided into six, which equals a bet of one unit.

The betting action is just a matter of simple division of the DIVISOR into the TARGET figure.

To explain the action, we'll work to a target figure of $12. To work out your bets you use the divisor of six and the target of 12.

The opening bet, then, is $2 (12 divided by six). If the opening bet lost, the objective would be increased by the lost $2 to $14 and you would then divide six into 14 to get the total of the next bet.Rounding off, your next bet would be $2.50.

Let's assume your bet lost again. You now have a target of $16.50 and this is divided by six so your next bet would be, rounded off, $3.

Let's assume the worst and we have this bet losing. Your target now rises to $19.50, which again is divided by six to get your next bet, which is, rounded off, $3.50.

Good news! You get a winner at 2/1. That means you have won $7 of the target of $19.50, which reduces the target to $12.50.

You now have to drop your divisor by two points (the price of the winner) and this now becomes a divisor of four.

Your next bet, then, is $12.50 divided by four, which gives you a vet, rounded off, of $3. If this bet won, say, at 2/1 you would have a profit of $6 coming off the $12.50, leaving you only $6.50 to get to complete the Six Point Plan, with a divisor of 1. At this point you can simply rule off that particular section and begin a completely new Six Point target and divisor.

Should you strike a losing run which seems without end, you can easily halt any rapid rise in stakes by introducing the Safety Brake.

The divisor may be six when you strike a slump which has taken the target figure to, say, 60, meaning a bet of 10 units next time.

All you do now is bring in a new divisor to add to the present one, and a fresh target. This means a new target of 12 (added to the current 60) making 72, and a new divisor of 12.

Your next bet, then, would be 72 divided by 12, equalling six.

If you were still not happy you could even bring in a third divisor of six and a third extra target of 12, making your set-up now a target of 84 divided by 18, meaning a next bet of, say, $4.50.You can also introduce new divisor/target figures when your current divisor has, say, dropped to two, with an objective, say, of $5. This calls for a $2.50 bet. Whenever the divisor is lower than three it is sensible, to protect your capital, to bring in a new divisor and objective, as this prevents stakes rising too rapidly in the event of a long losing run.

Divisor Target
2      5
Bring in new divisor
6      12
New divisor/target
8       17

As you can see, you now have a new divisor of eight and a new target of 17, giving you a next bet of, say, $2.

Why do we bring in this safety brake? Because, with a divisor of only two you Bets could climb too steeply and the situation just might become fraught with panic on your side.

The good thing about the Six Point Plan is that it provides, through the safety brakes, for a common-sense approach.

Also, you MUST win in the end! On any reasonable set of selections, you will eventually back winners whose combined total odds will wipe out the divisor and produce the desired profit.

It can be used for Evens=Red black etc
Dozens
Columns
Lines
Streets

Lanky

[witho]

Hi Lanky, it looks like a fairly safe approach, what do you usually bet on? Even money, dozens?? And where did you get the payoffs of 2/1, and 3/1 from. 2/1 from single dozen?

[Lanky]

Hi Lanky, it looks like a fairly safe approach, what do you usually bet on? Even money, dozens?? And where did you get the payoffs of 2/1, and 3/1 from. 2/1 from single dozen?

Hi Mate

The original 6 point divisor plan was used in racing =horses dogs etc.
So I more or less left the article in its pure form that's where the 3/1 comes from.
You have a good point I will go in & get rid of that so our friends that play Roulette with it don't get confused.

I used it on the races too a long time ago. I don,t bet on anything that has more then 2 legs these Days mate.

But when I turned to Roulette I tweaked it suit.
I use it on nearly everything except My coffee Mate.

Yes Mate the 2/1 is from the Dozens Just Like 5/1 would be the Lines & 11/1 would be the Streets.

Good post mate thanks for the tip.

Your Mate

Lanky

[Lanky]

As Promised I will try & explain how to use the 6 point divisor that I tweaked it a little years ago so it could be used at roulette.
And these are real numbers that came out I did not make them up.
Note. that I did not use a selection system here I just did it as if someone decided to bet Lows for the day
Lets say I was betting unders or low 1 to 18
& our target is a profit of 6 units.
Whenever we win we bring the divisor down one
Whenever we lose 2 bets in a row we put it up one.
So when are in profit we have a choice to either start again
or
Use the divisor as in the article that you read.
Everyone is different & it becomes a personal choice for each player.
I myself like to restart after any profit.
And another thing if the divisor gets down to 2
(you can make this 3 for extra safety if you want)
I always add another divisor of 6 + 6 more to target.
I will mark the profits this way [ ]
div (no#) the numbers that came up are marked in brackets = (25)
6/6=1 to bet (25) lose 1 add 6=7 to target
6/7=2 to bet (1) win so now 7-2= 5-6target =[1]
6/6=1 to bet (22) lose 1 add6=7
6/7=2 to bet (3) win so now 7-2=5-6target=[2]
6/6=1 to bet (35) lose 1 add 6=7 to target
6/7=2 to bet (2) win so now 7-2=5-6 target=[3]
6/6=1 to bet (29) lose 1 add 6=7 to target
6/7=2 to bet (19) lose 2 add 7=9 to target
we lost twice so put the divisor up 1 to 7 so now
7/9=2 to bet (33) lose 2 add 9=11 to target
7/11=2 to bet (Z) lose 2 add 11=13 to target
we lost twice so put the divisor up 1 to 8 so now
8/13=2 to bet (21) lose 2 add 13=15 to target
8/13=2 to bet (11) win so now 13-2=11 to target
we won so divisor comes down 1 to 7 so now
7/11=2 to bet (9) win so now 11-2=9 to target
we won so divisor down 1 to 6 so now
6/9=2 to bet (2 lose 2 add 9=11
6/11=2 to bet (11) win so now 11-2=9
we won so divisor down 1 to 5 so now
5/9=2 to bet 1 win so now 9-2=7
we won so div down 1 to 4 so now
4/7=2 to bet (Z) lose 2 add 7=11
4/11=3 to bet (19) lose 3 add 11=14
we lost twice so div up 1 to 5 so now
5/14=3 to bet (14) win so now 14-3=11 to target
4/11=3 to bet (11) win so now 11-3=8 to target
we won so div down 1 to 3
3/8=3 to bet (17) win so now 8-3=5-6 target=[4]
6/6=1 to bet (14) win so now 6-1=5-6 target=[5]
6/6=1 to bet (10) win so now 6-1=5-6 target=[6]
Target reached after 23 bets

I just did it here in its pure natural form.

However I have tweaked it so that I can bet on the
Zero pocket or the Zero or both if I want to

If I had bet on the Zero pocket it would have cost me another 23 units but it would have returned me another 54-23 outlay=31 more profit

If I had just bet on the Zero it would have cost me another 23 units for a return of 72-23=49 more profit.

If I had bet on both the Zero pocket & the Zero
it would have cost me 46 units more for a return of
126-46=80 units more profit.

Its an individual thing that every player has to make a choice of what they like to do.

I prefer the Zero pocket bet

Because when the pocket is coming its like getting money from heaven.
But when its not coming its a mongrel.

Also this example is done on even money bets only
but it can work on them all
EG: Dozen & column bet...Line bet....Street bet


Your Friend

Lanky

[Lanky]

Ok seeing that we have some interest here.

I think its only fair that I do the exact same post only this time I will do it betting the
Zero pocket of Zero 1 2 3

The rub or difference here is that you have to put your target up 1 to 7
So that the divisor can carry the extra unit/s easily by putting the bets up slightly
on the bet selection.

Just follow along & you will get the idea.

The zero pocket bet will appear as zp.

div (no#) the numbers that came up are marked in brackets = (25)

6/7=2+1zp=10 (25) Lose 3 add 7=10 to target
6/10=2+1zp=13(1) win 4 back=9 Less 9 for zp=0 from 7=[7] profit

We are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=13 (22) Lose 3 add 7=10 to target
6/10=2+1zp=13(3) win 4 back=9 Less 9 for zp=0 from 7=7+7=[14] profit

We are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (35) Lose 3 add 7=10 to target
6/10=2+1zp=13(2) win 4 back=9 Less 9 for zp=0 from 7=7+14=[21] profit

we are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (29) Lose 3 add 7=10 to target
6/10=2+1zp=13(19) Lose 3 add 10=13 to target

we lost twice so put the divisor up 1 to 7 so now

7/13=2+1zp=16(33) Lose 3 add 13=16 to target
7/16=3+1zp=20(Z) Lose 4 add 16=20 Less 9 from zp=11 to target

We won on the bets outlayed so bring divisor down 1 to 6

6/11=2+1zp=14(21) Lose 3 add 11=14 to target
6/14=3+1zp=18(11) win 6 back=12

we won so divisor comes down 1 to 5 so now

5/12=3+1zp=16(9) win 6 back=10 to target

we won so divisor down 1 to 4 so now

4/10=3+1zp=14(22) Lose 4 add 10=14 to target
4/14=4+1zp=19(11) win 8 back=11 to target

we won so divisor down 1 to 3 so now

3/11=4+1zp=16(1) win 8 back=8 less 9 back for zp=+1+7target=8+21=[29] profit

we are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (Z) Lose 3 add 7=10 Less 9 back from zp=1 from 7=6+29=[35] profit

We are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (19) Lose 3 add 7=10
6/10=2+1zp=13(14) win 4 back=9

we won so divisor down 1 to 5

5/9=2+1zp=12 (11) win 4 back=8

we won so div down 1 to 4

5/8=2+1zp=11 (17) win 4 back=7 from 7=even=[35]profit

We are even so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (14) win 4 back=6 from 7=1+35=[36]profit

we are in profit so we start again

6/7=2+1zp=10 (10) win 4 back=6 from 7=1+36=[37]profit

As you can see there are a number of ways to do it other then just betting for
the win selection.

1.Some may want to be more aggressive by not putting the divisor up until 4 lost bets in a row.

2.Some may want to be very aggressive by not putting the divisor up at all.

However if you chose either of the above two options the bets rise quicker & higher.

I would suggest that while learning this that you put the bets up after 2 losses in a row.

Anyhow I have done my best for you showing different ways that it can be used.

One thing I know for sure is that those who learn it will notice a difference from day one.

I am only trying to help that's all.

I truly believe that Money Management coupled with a reasonable selection method are the main ingredients in any form of betting.

Your Friend

Lanky

[MattyMattz]

Hey Lanky,

was wondering what you (and others) believe to be the best bet to apply this 6 point divisor plan to? (even bets, columns, lines?).
I've just started testing it out and found that the columns tend to work better (or atleast quicker) than the even bets... although I haven't tested alot yet.

Just curious.
Thanks,
Matt

[Lanky]

Mate

It works best on whatever is winning..LMAO

I promised you an aggressive demo from the questions thread for ME.

I will do one here now on the evens bet.

I will be aggressive because I won't put the divisor up.
until I reach the safety brake area which is when the divisor is at 2.

Say we were betting in $10 units & we wanted to win $60 OK Mate

L=6/6=1 lost=7
L=6/7=2 lost=9
L=6/9=2 lost=11
L=6/11=2 lost=13
W=6/13=3 won=10
L=5/10=2 lost=12
L=5/12=3 lost=15
L=5/15=3 lost=18
L=5/18=4 lost=22
W=5/22=5 Won=17
W=4/17=5 Won=12
L=3/12=4 lost=16
L=3/16=6 lost=22
W=3/22=8 won=14

Now the divisor would be 2.
But we don;t want out bets to sky rocket out of control so we add the Safety Brake.
Which simply is that we add another 6 point div to another target of 6
Like this
2/14 +
6/6
........
8/20=3 to bet........see that Mate if we had not done this our next bet would have been 7 now its only 3.

W=8/20=3 won=17
L=7/17=3 lost=20
L=7/20=3 lost=23
W=7/23=4 won=19
W=6/19=4 won=15
W=5/15=3 won=12 
L=4/12=3 lost=15
W=4/15=4 won=11
W=3/11=4 won=7

Now see whats happened here...
we started out wanting a 6 unit win..but we added another 6 unit target=12 win target
we have 7 left.....so seven from 12=5 units profit.

So we have already won $50 of the $60 we wanted.


But we are in front.....So why tempt fate.....we will start again.

With the original  6/6=1 to bet

We had 23 bets for 10 wins & 13 loses

And we started out terrible (on purpose) with only 4 wins in the first 14 bets.

Your Friend

Lanky

[MattyMattz]

Hey Lanky, thanks for the demo.  Your example of using the safety brake will be very useful, I'm sure.  Just to clarify though...
On your last example you start off losing 4 bets in a row.  After losing 2 in a row, don't you increase the divisor by one?  So instead of 6/6, 6/7, 6/9, 6/11, you'd have bet 6/6, 6,7, 7/9, 7/11?  

Just double checking.  

Thanks!
Matt

[Lanky]

Hey Lanky, thanks for the demo.  Your example of using the safety brake will be very useful, I'm sure.  Just to clarify though...
On your last example you start off losing 4 bets in a row.  After losing 2 in a row, don't you increase the divisor by one?  So instead of 6/6, 6/7, 6/9, 6/11, you'd have bet 6/6, 6,7, 7/9, 7/11?  

Just double checking.  

Thanks!
Matt

Yes Matt You are right.

NormallyYou would do that with the divisor. When You are playing safe.

And that's the way I showed every one how to do it to start with.

But seeing as though we are learning more about it I thought that people would want to know more.

And the Various ways it can be used.


However what I did was to show you what happens when You get agressive with it so I did not put the divisor up at any time other then when the Safety Brake was Hit.

Just showing You the difference between the 2 mate.

Here is another thing Matt

Like if I was playing the 2 dozens

I would bet like this.
1x1=lost
2x2=lost
6/13=3x3=19 lost
6/19=4x4=27 lost >>>then we would go to 7/27=4x4 right Matt ??

Now look back that's really 4 singl bets.....3  3  4  4

So after 4 lost bets on the dozens of 1x1 2x2 3x3 4x4 we are loseing...20 units

Now lets do that scenario with 8 lost bets on the even chances
L=6/6=1 lost
L=6/7=2 lost
L=6/9=2 lost
L=6/11=2 lost.....4 lost bets so now we put the divisor up 1 to 7
L=7/13=2 lost
L=7/15=3 lost
L=7/18=3 lost
L=7/21=3 lost.....8 lost bets =18 lost units.......and we would then have 8/24=3

I am exposeing more of the divisor plan as more people get use to it.

I started off showing the easy steps first.....now a more advanced step.

Like 4 lost bets on the 2 Dozens.......really equals 8 lost bets on the evens.

I wonder if there is more to come Matt........LMAO

Your Friend

Lanky

[Moccoman]

Hi Lanky,

Posting this for 2 reasons, firstly to ask a question but secondly, (and I think more importantly), to bump it back up to where it belongs. I just can't believe this isn't getting "air time"!

Played this again last night, using high and the zero pocket, but instead of a full unit on the zero pocket, I only used half a unit each time. I won 10 units pretty quickly with no bet over 4 units but had to go - so another successful outing. Must admit that I got a few looks from other players - there they were writing down all the numbers, marking crosses and arrows on the scorecard wheel and all I'm doing is writing 6/9 2.5 W and then 5/6.5 2.5 for the next bet. Even the eye in the sky wouldn't have a clue! 

I asked this as part of my question on another thread but what do you consider a losing session or point of no return?

As you have stated, it must win in the end, which is true but it is also true of many other MM plans, the Marty, Labby, Johnson, Guetting, to name a few - which fall over due to table limits, "scary bets syndrome" or the "runs from hell".

Regards
Mocco

[TicTacToe]

Nice MM Lanky

Just starting to grasp it in EC mode.

But I would really like if you can explain it more in DZ mode or even other betting modes ... Lines, Streets.

Thanks in advance for your effort.


TTT

ps how would you play the zero's on a 0/00 wheel ?

[Lanky]

Hi Moccoman

Hi Lanky,

Posting this for 2 reasons, firstly to ask a question but secondly, (and I think more importantly), to bump it back up to where it belongs. I just can't believe this isn't getting "air time"!

Well My Mate I guess it just does not suit some people to play this way.(It suits You That's all that matters Mate)
Another reason is that in America they divide differently then we do so it could appear back to front to them.
Funny because My Mate LeBear was using it in Vegas a couple of months ago and some who noticed said he was doing it back to front & He looked down & realised he was doing it the way He learnt it from me.....Lmao

Played this again last night, using high and the zero pocket, but instead of a full unit on the zero pocket, I only used half a unit each time. I won 10 units pretty quickly with no bet over 4 units but had to go - so another successful outing. Must admit that I got a few looks from other players - there they were writing down all the numbers, marking crosses and arrows on the scorecard wheel and all I'm doing is writing 6/9 2.5 W and then 5/6.5 2.5 for the next bet. Even the eye in the sky wouldn't have a clue!

Hhahahahah Yes Buddy that will get you the looks alright.
And that was very clever of you to work that out Mate.
Its Yours now and you can use it anyway You want.
So Please tweak it to suit Your self Cobber.
You can sometimes get away with betting a Quarter unit as well.
And when the Zp is hitting its like money from Heaven.


See You, Lebear , Witho etc took one look at it & probably said that's interesting and after seeing it work after testing it said that's for Me.
And You all took to it like a duck to Water.

You saw in this something simular to what I saw when Victor 1st Exposed His Lw Method to the world.

And most were saying it could & would not work.(they still do)

But I took a look & saw it differently in as so much that he was using a cancellation betting plan.(which He tweaked to suit Himself)
Which on an average run would require about a 50% win rate.
And he was using a selection plan that hit approx 66% of the time.
And on top of that he would be in Virtual mode at times for long periods.
Which would take advantage of the good trams & left the bad trams alone where possible.
So in effect he would get a higher win rate of all spins because he eliminated some or most of the bad ones and was not betting on them.
Which in turn would lower the required win rate of his betting plan.

I asked this as part of my question on another thread but what do you consider a losing session or point of no return?

Sorry My Friend if I did not answer you properly in the 1st instance.

(In this part below I will show what I do risking between 10%(non aggressive and Safest) to 30% (Aggressive and not as Safe) of my Bank & why)

That is not an easy Question to answer.
So I will answer it with a full explanation the best I can.
So this could be a bit lengthy, but if it helps just one person then I will have done My job.

This part will depend on each player and their tolerance for betting higher units while on a losing run.
And also the Bank that a Player has.
Like I am a believer of having a Victor bank.
Which is 2000 times your betting unit.

Victor used that when He was playing Full time as a  Pro & Semi Pro & feeding His Family with it from His winnings.
And I just adopted this as the norm.

So for me to win from 1.5% to 3% and more a session is doable.

Generally I will walk away at 10% or less as a loss.
So somewhere between 150 to 200 as a loss.
Lets say you are betting in dollars that would be $150 to $200

Why ?
Well that way if we win 4 or 5 out of 6 sessions we still win.

Now lets say we have won $600 or 30% profit on our Bank I purposely go and try & win more so in other words I put the unit size up.

Now if I do this I will still go with a plan.
Lets say the bet was in $10 units.
Then I would look at going anywhere between $100 to $200 profit.
And I will not risk anymore then 30% of my Bank=$600
If I lose between $500 to $600 I will walk away.

It is the same if we played $25 units.
I would look for between $100 to $200 plus profit & walk.
I would not go past losing $600.

If I lose that $600 then our Bank is still even & I start all over again.

Doing things this way I have built extra banks & I now have 4.5  Banks or have won 350% on original starting Bank.

As you have stated, it must win in the end, which is true but it is also true of many other MM plans, the Marty, Labby, Johnson, Guetting, to name a few - which fall over due to table limits, "scary bets syndrome" or the "runs from hell".

Regards
Mocco

I think my words are. (And if Not they should be )

"Used with any reasonable selection Method You must Win"
In other words providing that the selection method hits a reasonable rate of wins.

And Yes You are right Mate.
And it won't matter what MM plan you use when those sessions from hell come.

YOU WILL LOSE.

What I am trying to do is ride out those Hell Sessions if possible & if not then to minimise the damage to Our Banks.

Like in the last example I did on the Even Chances.
We only had 6 wins in the 1st 29 bets from memory.
Still that's consistent to what I have found in the past.
That depending where we had got 6 wins from every 30 bets we would usually by that time still have between 40% to 50% of our Stop Loss to go (if it was 100 units) before we have to walk away.
Not what you would call a reasonable run by any means.
But in the end as we rode out the bad session we ended up winning.

Another thing I do is  that once a unit is won then it's a prisoner.
Eg:
Lets say we have won 30 units then that goes in my pocket.
Now lets say we lost 150 units from there I walk with the 30 units won still in My pocket.

I will not take the 30 units won off the 150 units lost and say I have lost 120 and bet on & lose another 30 and say now I have lost 150

That's just Stupid because you have given the Casino back 180 units instead of just the 150.
So in other words Every unit Won stays with me they cant get that back.

I guess to sum up it could be put this way.

If you lose with the Divisor its usually because of these reasons.
1)   You did not start off with a big enough Bank that would carry you through the sessions from Hell.
2)   Or You have not bet in units in proportion to your Bank
3)   Your Selection Plan has not hit at a reasonable rate.

Hope I have been of some help to You & Others My Mate.

Your Friend

Lanky

[Moccoman]

Thanks for the reply Lanky,

Last night I made a dumb mistake in recording and only won 23 units. Played low as there were 17 highs and 3 lows in the last 20 spins on the console of the RR, so played low (gamblers fallacy I know, but its hard to resist the equilibrium thing!) and the zp with a half unit.

Started to regret my bet choice after a few spins but continued on with the same bet selection and everything ended up ok, with the highest bet being 6 1/2 units.

From memory I think you are out west, so do you get to the east anytime?

With a bit more tweaking I think this could be really really good.

Regards
Mocco

[TicTacToe]

Hi Lanky


Here is an RX session ( 50 spins ) I did using one of many different criteria for my EC bets. This was my best session. I used the 6 point divisor plan for MM. I know 50 spins is nothing to go by as far as testing roulette systems.

The bets were 25$ units and the bets were on EC ( B/R )




For the time being the criteria is ( TOP SECRET ) until further testing is done and maybe I don't look like a fool.


Still waiting to hear from you on how to use this MM on other bets besides the E/C bets.


Thanks in advance


TTT

[Lanky]

 Hi Moccoman

You are doing great Mate.
I hope You win forever My Friend.

From memory I think you are out west, so do you get to the east anytime?

Mate I am Approx 75 ks from Star City.

With a bit more tweaking I think this could be really really good.

I agree with You Cobber.


Good On Ya Mate

Lanky

[Lanky]

-